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Caliper Re-Assembly
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1
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Coat the new pressure seals with Lockheed Series
329 Hydraulic Fluid and ease the first pressure
seal into the groove in the inner bore with the
fingers, taking care to bed it correctly. It will
be noted that the diameter of the seal is larger
than that of the seal groove, in order to provide
an interference fit. In addition, the seal groove
and seal are different in section so that when
bedded, the seal feels proud to the touch at the
edge furthest from the bore. This is normal.
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2
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Coat the inner piston (the pistons are
identical) with Lockheed Series 329 Fluid, insert
it squarely right through the outer cylinder into
the bore of the inner cylinder, closed end into the
bore. Leave the piston protruding approximately
5/16 in. (8 mm) from the mouth of the inner bore.
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3
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Fit a new pressure seal to the caliper outer
bore groove, again bedding it correctly.
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4
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Coat the second piston with Lockheed Series 329
fluid and insert it open end first into the bore
with the fingers. Avoid tilting the piston and
continue inserting it gently through the bore until
approximately 5/16 in. (8 mm) of the open end
protrudes from the inner mouth of the bore.
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5
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Replace the end plug using a new '0' ring seal
and tighten into position. For final tightening,
the caliper must be secured to the fork leg.
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6
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Wipe the caliper clean, removing excess fluid
which may subsequently contaminate the brake
friction pads, taking care not to allow any rag
particles to pass anywhere near the brake pipe feed
union.
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7
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Fit the two friction pads and ensure that
they seat correctly.
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8
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Assemble the caliper assembly over the wheel
disc and offer the caliper to the fork leg,
securing with two bolts and washers.
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9
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Tighten the caliper end plug using peg spanner
tool to 26 Ib./ft. torque.
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10
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Refit the fluid feed hose bracket to the
mudguard bridge stud.
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IMPORTANT
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Before connecting the lower end of the brake
pipe to the caliper, note that the pipe olive is
specially formed to provide an effective high
pressure oil seal against the caliper union
seating. The olive is very susceptible to
overtightening and if it is severely distorted by
overtightening it may be impossible to remove thus
rendering the caliper scrap.
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11
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Examine the union olive of the metal brake pipe
for symptoms of previous overtightening such as
distortion, damage and cracks and if necessary
renew the pipe.
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12
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Offer the olive of the brake pipe to the
caliper, hold the pipe in the required position and
run the union screw fully down the thread until the
pipe is just "nipped" on to its seating. Tighten
the union nut with a spanner one flat only, i.e.
60°.
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13
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Slacken the bleed nipple one full turn and
connect with a suitable bleed tube to a clean
container (see Fig. HI 7).
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14
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Fill the master cylinder reservoir with
Lockheed Series 329 brake fluid.
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15
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Operate the brake lever until fluid begins to
flow through the bleed tube. During this operation,
guard against the master cylinder fluid level
becoming too low, otherwise air will be drawn into
the system. The master cylinder bellows seal must
be removed to observe the fluid level.
If replenishment is necessary during this
operation, hold the lever to the handlebar whilst
the reservoir is topped up. Similarly, when fluid
free of bubbles flows from the bleed pipe, tighten
the caliper bleed nipple, whilst the brake lever is
held against the handlebar.
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16
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With the bleed nipple tightened up, remove the
bleed hose, apply the brake lever a number of times
to check for sponginess (indicating air still in
the system and a need for further bleeding) and
examine the system for leaks.
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17
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Finally recheck the fluid level in the master
cylinder reservoir, topping up as necessary, then
road test the motorcycle.
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